THE LATEST APPOINTMENTS: CARTIER, CACHAREL & CHRISTIAN DIOR

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Raf Simons has been appointed as creative director of Christian Dior, succeeding John Galliano.

 

The Latest Appointments at Starwood Hotels, Christie’s, Bergdorf Goodman, Cartier, YSL Beauté, Sonia Rykiel, PPR, Bentley Motors, Akris & Cacharel

The Dior saga is finally over. After one year of speculation – where everyone from Riccardo Tisci, Marc Jacobs, Kayne West, Alber Elbaz, Alexander Wang and even the disgraced Galliano himself were rumoured to be taking the top spot – Raf Simons has been confirmed to head womenswear and haute couture, whilst Kris Van Assche continues to head design at Dior Homme.

Over at Richemont, group manufacturing director Jan Rupert is stepping down to focus on other activities and to broaden his remit within the family of companies controlled by Johann Rupert. Whilst Mr. Rupert will remain an executive director of the group, Richard Lepeu, Richemont’s deputy chief executive, will oversee the group’s manufacturing strategy as of April 1.

At PPR, Gucci America’s president Laura Lendrum has resigned to pursue other opportunities according to WWD. Ms. Lendrum joined Gucci in 1997, and moved to Yves Saint Laurent America as president in 2001. Gucci president and chief executive officer Patrizio di Marco will oversee the Americas region in the interim until the company names a successor.

Raf Simons, Creative Director, Dior

Ending a year of speculation, Belgian designer Raf Simons has been named as the next artistic director of Christian Dior, following his recent exit from Jil Sander. Mr. Simons will be in charge of haute couture, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, starting with the couture show in July, while keeping his eponymous men’s line. Kris Van Assche remains in his position at Dior Homme.

Source: NYTimes
Stanislas de Quercize, CEO, Cartier

Cartier has appointed Stanislas de Quercize to take over from Bernard Fornas as chief executive of top-of-the-range jewellery and watchmaker Cartier. Mr. De Quercize is currently serving as CEO of fellow Richemont subsidiary Van Cleef & Arpels, and will replace Mr Fornas at the end of the year, when he is due to retire.

Source: Reuters
Joshua Schulman, President, Bergdorf Goodman

Following his departure from Jimmy Choo in late 2011, Joshua Schulman has been named president of U.S. luxury retailer Bergdorf Goodman. Prior to his tenure as CEO of Jimmy Choo, Mr. Schulman served as executive vice president at the Gucci Group, where he oversaw worldwide merchandising and wholesale for Yves Saint Laurent, and served as worldwide director of Gucci women’s ready-to-wear.

Source: WWD
Stephan Bezy, General Manager, YSL Beauté

Joining the Management Committee of L’Oreal Luxe, Stephan Bezy has been appointed International General Manager of Yves Saint Laurent Beauté. Mr. Bezy joined L’Oréal in 1991 and has since served as global President at Redken, International General Manager at Shu Uemura and General Manager of Cacharel.

Source: Premium Beauty News
Management Team, Starwood Hotels & Resorts

Starwood has restructured its executive team following the retirement of three senior leaders, Matt Avril, President of the Hotel Group; Denise Coll, President of Starwood North America; and Miguel Ko, Chairman and President of Starwood Asia Pacific.

Currently president and CEO of Starwood Vacation Ownership, Sergio Rivera, has been promoted to co-president of Starwood Americas. Osvaldo Librizzi who assumes primary responsibility for Latin America joins him as co-president of Starwood Americas. Stephen Ho, currently Senior Vice President of Acquisitions and Development for Starwood China, has been promoted to President of Asia Pacific. And finally currently head of Starwood’s operations for China, Qian Jin, has been promoted to the title of President of Greater China.

Source: PR Newswire
Vincent Gillet, Brand Chief, W & Le Meridien

Starwood has appointed Vincent Gillet as brand chief for W Hotels and Le Meridien brands, replacing Eva Ziegler. Mr. Gillet has spent the last two decades working on well-known luxury brands for LVMH, Chanel and Pernod Ricard, followed by a three-year tenure as chief marketing officer at Six Senses Resorts & Spas.

Source: USA Today
Eric Langon, Managing Director, Sonia Rykiel

Eric Langdon has been appointed as managing director of Sonia Rykiel effective April 16, where he will report to CEO Jean-Marc Loubier, also CEO of Fung Brands, which acquired an 80 per cent stake in the French fashion house in February. Most recently Mr. Langon served as chief operating officer at Lancel.

Source: WWD
Katrina Burchell, Intellectual Property Director, PPR

Katrina Burchell has been charged with the task of re-organising and monitoring PPR’s Intellectual Property function, joining the French conglomerate as Intellectual Property Director. Prior to her appointment, Ms. Burchell headed the Trademarks, copyrights and domain names at Unilever group.

Source: 4-Traders
Emile Rubenfield, CEO, Carolina Herrera

Emilie Rubinfeld has been appointed vice president of global marketing and communications, in a newly created title at Carolina Herrera. Most recently Ms. Rubinfeld served as senior vice president of marketing and communications at Akris, following tenure as vice president of marketing at Giorgio Armani Corp.

Source: WWD
Jinqing Caroline Cai, Managing Director, Christie’s China

Auction house Christie’s has appointed its first managing director in China, Jinqing Caroline Cai, effective June 1. A founder of the Brunswick Group, a global PR firm in Beijing, Ms. Cai will manage the office and oversee all activities involving the Chinese marketplace.

Source: JustLuxe
Katie Reed, Associate Vice President, Akris

Katie Reed has joined Akris as associate vice president of marketing and communications, following service at Patek Philippe North America, as public relations and communications director. Ms. Reed will oversee all areas of marketing, advertising, public relations and special events in the U.S.

Source: WWD
Kevin Rose, Sales & Marketing Chief, Bentley Motors

As part of a reshuffle of senior marketers within Volkswagen Group UK, Kevin Rose has joined Bentley Motors as its new board level sales and marketing chief, taking over from Alasdair Stewart. Mr. Rose joins from parent group Volkswagen’s China business, where he was executive vice president for sales.

Bentley has also named Andrea Baker as head of media relations, who most recently served as head of public relations with Porsche Cars Great Britain.

Source: Marketing Week
Source: JustLuxe.com
Pascal d’Halluin, CEO, Cacharel

Pascal d’Halluin has been appointed chief executive officer of Cacharel, succeeding managing director Marc Ramanantsoa, effective March 19. Mr. d’Halluin worked with L’Oréal for eight years before taking over as CEO of Lee Cooper France in 1994.

Source: Just Style
Michael Burgess, President, Saks Direct

Saks Inc. has named Michael Burgess president of Saks Direct, reporting to Denise Incandela, executive vice president and chief marketing officer. Mr. Burgess was most recently led merchandising, marketing, consumer information technology and other functions of the consumer division of FTD, the florist, which is owned by United Online Inc.

Source: WWD
Michael Kingston, SVP & CIO, Neiman Marcus

Neiman Marcus Group has named Michael R. Kingston senior vice president and chief information officer, succeeding Phillip Maxwell, who earlier this month announced his retirement. Earlier, Mr. Kingston served as vice president, applications at Coach Inc. and international director of information services at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.

Source: WWD

For more in the series of The Latest Appointments, please see our most recent editions as follows:

The Latest Appointments: Givenchy, Jil Sander & Yves Saint Laurent
The Latest Appointments, Pucci, Tod’s & Girard-Perregaux
The Latest Appointments, Bulgari, Labelux & Net-a-Porter


© Luxury Society, The Latest Appointments: Cartier, Cacharel & Christian Dior, 17 April 2012, by Sophie Doran


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THE TOP 50 MOST-SEARCHED FOR LUXURY BRANDS IN CHINA

World Luxury Index China – Top 50 Most-Searched For Luxury Brands in China

View more presentations from Digital Luxury Group, DLG SA

Luxury Society and Digital Luxury Group are pleased to launch the World Luxury Index, an international ranking and analysis of the most searched-for brands within the luxury industry.

Created as a way to provide luxury brands with a standardised way of measuring brand interest at an international level, Digital Luxury Group, in partnership with Luxury Society, is pleased to announce the launch of The World Luxury Index, an on-going international ranking and analysis of the most searched-for brands within the luxury industry.

Covering over 400 brands within six key segments (fashion, beauty, jewellery, cars, watches, and hospitality) in ten key luxury markets, the World Luxury Index provides insights on the unbiased search inputs coming from global luxury consumers in the world’s top search engines (Google, Bing, Baidu, Yandex). The result is a one-of-a-kind benchmark of the luxury brands capturing the attention of luxury-minded consumers around the world.


“ The World Luxury Index provides insights on the unbiased search inputs coming from global luxury consumers in the world’s top search engines ”


“This is actually the first time that such powerful, yet seemingly basic, information is being made available,” explains Philippe Barnet, Managing Director, Luxury Society. “But we are excited about the prospect of regularly informing luxury brand executives about the desirability of their brands online, across various categories, geographical markets and even by specific product.”

“For the World Luxury Index China, we’ve looked at over 150 million consumer searches performed in China’s leading search engines, Baidu and Google, and analysed the findings to identify the most-searched luxury brands. In the process we uncovered some fascinating insights,” confirms David Sadigh, CEO and founder of Digital Luxury Group.

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Conducting the report…

With new statistics on the luxury industry in China being shared each day, the time is right for a uniform benchmark. Using DLG’s proprietary technology, DemandTracker™, the World Luxury Index has been created to provide luxury brands with a standardised solution to measure brand interest at an international level.

Our key findings include…

Eighteen out of the top fifty most-searched for luxury brands (36%) in China are automobile brands. Audi is the most-searched, followed by BMW and Mercedes Benz. Audi has long held a privileged spot in China, it’s the official car of the Chinese government.

Chinese brand Chow Tai Fook is the most searched jewellery brand in China, far surpassing 2nd and 3rd ranked brands, Cartier and Swarovski. With a distribution network of over 1,500 locations across 320 cities in China, Hong Kong, and Macau, it’s no surprise that they lead. Cartier can be found in approximately 300 stores.

The top 3 most-searched fashion brands in the ranking, Louis Vuitton (#3), Chanel (#5), and Dior (#8) each lead through different segments. Interest for Dior is specifically related to beauty (and more specifically fragrance) over 80% of the time. For Chanel, beauty represents just fewer than 50%, and fashion and accessories at 40%, while it was noted 94% of searches are fashion/accessory-related for Louis Vuitton

“ Unlike the other parts of the world, Western brands in China often find that the public calls the brand something other than the official name ”

Unlike the other parts of the world, Western brands in China often find that the public calls the brand something other than the official name. This is illustrated by looking at the names used when Chinese search for Burberry:

– 76% by unofficial Chinese name
– 15% by official Chinese name
– 9% by English name

Some brands are more recognized for shortened versions of their official names, where 63% of searches for Louis Vuitton were made using “LV” instead of “Louis Vuitton”.

Other brands have adapted their names to paraphrases instead of using a literal translation of their brand name, to resonate more closely with Chinese consumers. For example, Hermès in Chinese [爱马仕] means “an elegant man who loves horsing” and Land Rover [路虎] means “a tiger on the road.”

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Most surprisingly we found…

The World Luxury Index China revealed several luxury brand success stories. Take Moncler for example, the French fashion brand has been generating a surprisingly high level of interest in China thanks to its sponsorship of a widely watched television program in which the main characters all wore Moncler. This shows how important and influential TV in China can be.

Another really interesting example is Borghese, a beauty brand not particularly well known in the US and Europe is fascinatingly strong in China. Ranked #43, Borghese surpasses other notable beauty brands Benefit and Guerlain. Thanks to its highly regarded facemasks, Borghese, has been the talk of beauty forums and blogs even long before the brand’s official entry into the Chinese market. Here the impact of cult products and beauty forums and blogs is at work.


The full report is available online at: http://www.dlgr.com/chinarank. More detailed data and analysis on a particular segment or brand is available upon request.

For any further enquiries regarding the index or research, please contact Tamar Koifman of Digital Luxury Group, tkoifman@digital-luxury.com.


Digital Luxury Group
is the first international company dedicated exclusively to the design and implementation of digital communication strategies for luxury brands, with offices in New York, Geneva and Shanghai.

Luxury Society is the world’s most influential online community of top luxury executives. Based in Paris, with members in more than 150 countries, Luxury Society informs and connects CEOs, managers, journalists, consultants, designers and analysts from across the luxury industry.


© Luxury Society, The Top 50 Most-Searched for Luxury Brands in China, 25 April 2012, by Sophie Duran.


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THE LATEST HOTELS: KYIV, ABU DHABI & WESTERN AUSTRALIA

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The Berkeley River eco-resort, accessible only by seaplane or boat in Western Australia

InterContinental Hotel Group launches a brand dedicated to Chinese consumers, whilst Sofitel opens its second property in the UAE and Hilton’s Conrad launches in New York

Luxury hotel brands were some of the quickest to acknowledge the potential of Mainland China, developing properties far beyond Beijing and Shanghai well beyond luxury goods brands came knocking. But what they are now also beginning to gauge, is the growing significance of the affluent Chinese traveller, an increasingly global and mobile consumer who interacts with brands in Shanghai, Wuhan, San Francisco and Paris.

Thinking along these lines, the InterContinental Hotel Group has developed a new hotel brand based on four priorities it feels are important to Chinese travellers: tradition, rejuvenation, status and familiar spaces. HUALUXE – a hybrid of ‘Hua’ meaning majestic China and luxe – has been launched with the understanding that the Chinese traveller wants the status of a world-class luxury hotel group combined with a feeling of pride in China and respect for Chinese tradition.

The hotel giant expects the number of domestic travellers in China to reach 3.3bn in 2015 and forecasts the China hotel market will grow by 5-8% annually by 2030. The group has reportedly signed over 20 letters of intent and expects the first hotel to be open in late 2013 or early 2014, with plans to roll the brand out in 100 Chinese cities in the next 15-20 years.

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Sofitel, Abu Dhabi

As part of the new Capital Plaza Complex, Sofitel Luxury Hotels has opened its second property in the UAE at the eastern tip of Abu Dhabi’s Corniche. The hotel’s 282 rooms and suites elegantly blend modern design with authentic French “art de recevoir” combined with Arabic hospitality, featuring Jean Cocteau lithographs and sculptures inspired by Brancusi.

Website: sofitel.com
Source: Gulf News

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Swissôtel, Chicago

Swissôtel has unveiled renovations at its Chicago location, inspired by the work of the building’s original architect, Harry Weese. The lobby now features backlit glass panels etched with Chicago’s skyline, where check-in pods replace the traditional bulky hotel front desk. Concierges are equipped with tablets for quick access to all necessary information.

Website & Source: swissotel.com

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Fairmont Grand Hotel, Kyiv

Fairmont Hotels & Resorts is proud to announce the opening of Fairmont Grand Hotel Kyiv, the luxury brand’s first hotel in Eastern Europe. The 258-room, 54-suite property offers spectacular views of Podil Square and the Dnipro River, as well as a fully equipped business centre with 24-hour access as well as secretarial services.

Website: fairmont.com
Source: Elite Traveler

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Radisson Blu Istanbul Asia, Istanbul

Offering Super chic and contemporary Istanbul accommodation, the Radisson Blu Hotel, Istanbul Asia has 195 stylish, well-appointed guest rooms and suites, featuring a mix of designer furnishings and every conceivable modern convenience, including free high-speed Internet access, Anne Sémonin bath amenities and a 37-inch LCD television.

Website: radissonblu.com
Source: Hospitality.net

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The Westin Lake, Las Vegas

Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide has launched The Westin Lake Resort and Spa, its second location in Las Vegas. 493 rooms and suites, feature the world-renowned Westin Heavenly® Bed, exclusive SuperFoodsRX® menus, White Tea Aloe bath amenities and in-room, high-speed Internet access alongside ergonomic workspaces.

Website: westin.com
Source: 4-Traders

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Viceroy, Maldives

Located in Shaviyani Atoll, Viceroy Maldives is an ultra luxury resort comprising of 61 Villas with 32 over the water and 29 on the beach, designed for maximum privacy. The resort features five distinct dining venues, specialised massage techniques, yoga practices and dietary guidance as well as a series of Ayurvedic, regional and traditional spa treatments.

Website: viceroyhotelsandresorts.com
Source: CPP Luxury

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Conrad, New York

Rising 16 stories along the Hudson River waterfront, Conrad New York is the first NYC address from Conrad Hotels & Resorts, the global luxury brand of Hilton Worldwide. The 463 all-suite luxury hotel features panel televisions, one-touch technologies, wireless Internet access and iPod sound docks. Contemporary design by interior designer Jill Greaves has incorporated custom furnishings through separate areas for work and sleep as well as spacious bathrooms.

Website: conradhotels3.hilton.com
Source: Market Watch

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Capofaro, Salina

The Capofaro Malvasia & Resort has reopened following extensive renovations, on the Eolian Island of Salina in Southern Italy. One of the first Mediterranean wine resorts and retreats, the property is surrounded by the lush of Malvasia vineyards on soft slopes degrading towards the blue sea. Just twenty rooms are laid out across seven acres of vineyards, all of which have a terrace overlooking the sea.

Website: capofaro.it
Source: Grassi + Partners

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Berkeley River, Western Australia

Berkeley River luxury resort has opened in Far North Western Australia, on a 4600 hectare site accessible only by seaplane and boat. Located near a stunning river, with waterfalls and fresh water holes, 20 luxury “eco friendly” villas feature open air bathrooms with a shower and full bath. The resort can also arrange private boat and helicopter expeditions for guests.

Website: berkeleyriver.com.au
Source: The West

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Westin, Xian

Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide has launched The Westin Xian, its first entry into the Shaanxi province of China and the first hotel in Xian to have its own museum, paying tribute to the ancient history of China with a collection of over 2,000 artefacts. 329 rooms and 32 apartments feature LCD televisions, rainforest showers, extra-large closets, personal refreshment centres, and Westin’s signature Heavenly beds.

Website & Source: westin.com

For more in the series of The Latest Hotels, please see our most recent editions as follows:

The Latest Hotels, Istanbul, Panama & Berlin
The Latest Hotels, Mumbai, Moscow & Riviera Maya
The Latest Hotels, Kitzbühel, Tuscany & Hanoi


© Luxury Society, The Latest Hotels: Kyiv, Abu Dhabi & Western Australia, 24 April 2012, by Sophie Duran.


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A CALM CONFIDENCE FOR HAUTE HORLOGERIE

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The Jewellery Editor, Maria Doulton visits the 21st edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.

Optimism prevailed at the 2012 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, despite macroeconomic uncertainties, supply constraints & potential slowdown in Asia.

The atmosphere at 2012’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) marked that of calm confidence. 2011 proved to be an outstanding year for Swiss watchmaking – culminating in a new record for exports – yet executives remained mindful of macroeconomic uncertainties, supply constraints and a potential slowdown in Asia.

“We are quite optimistic for 2012,” confirmed Jean-Daniel Pasche, head of the Swiss watch federation, on the eve of the SIHH in Geneva. “Even though the watch industry might not have the same growth rates as the 19-20 per cent increase in watch exports seen in 2011.”


“Brands are worried about Europe, it’s not like buying milk. If things are bad, people stop buying watches.”


“Brands are worried about Europe,” he continued to Reuters. “It’s not like buying milk. If things are bad, people stop buying watches. Risks this year are the economic situation in Europe, U.S. austerity measures and the strong Swiss franc, but we expect the watch fairs to confirm the sector’s resilience.”

Despite being faced with a challenging landscape, brands remained optimistic about the coming twelve months. Vacheron Constantin claims it sold out its planned 2012 output of 19,000 timepieces in the first two days of the fair. CEO Juan-Carlos Torres remained positive that it will be another good year for the brand and does not believe China is likely to experience a sharp slowdown.

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Cartier’s Grand Complication Skeleton Pocket Watch

Officine Panerai shared its aggressive plans for expansion, revealing it will open fifteen new boutiques in the coming twelve months and will begin building a new factory in Neuchatel in March, which could increase its production staff from 130 to near 300. Fellow Richemont producer IWC will invest 50 million Swiss francs to add 25,000 square metres to its production site in Schaffhausen, as it struggles to keep up with demand.

Many conversations were driven by Swatch Group’s decision to reduce supply of components to competitors. Overall industry growth is expected to slow as brands seek alternative suppliers or develop capabilities in-house, but even then executives championed positivity. Many CEO’s were quick to acknowledge the need for unique products – and therefore unique components – in a quest to remain innovative and competitive.


“CEO’s were quick to acknowledge the need for unique products – and therefore components – in a quest to remain competitive.”


Such attitudes were convincingly reflected in the pieces on display. Wallpaper suggested that brands were embracing their invention and artistry to keep ahead of the game, following last year’s exhibition of play it safe, sure-to-sell looks. “Time after time we were shown some of the most creative watch designs in years,” they quipped in their wrap-up.

“Complications – those very technical watch additions such as tourbillons and minute repeaters – became a familiar motif as brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Van Cleef & Arpels sought to display their technical know-how. Compelling decorative techniques – enamelling, straw marquetry, tessellation and stone setting – were also popular themes.”

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Richard Mille’s Avenger Vertical Tourbillon concept watch

A sure sign that one of the world’s oldest luxury crafts has moved firmly into the 21st, was Richard Mille’s ground-breaking digital 3D display. Visitors watched giant digital watch dials linger in the air, rotating slowly to allow for a detailed view of inner and outer workings. Something that is sure to be repeated both at Baselworld and next year’s SIHH.

If the SIHH does indeed set the tone for the coming year in Haute Horlogerie, 2012 will champion innovation and creative strategic thinking. Change is upon us – dominant markets are changing, supply structures are changing and the landscape is, at the very least, challenging.

But for those that are game, this exciting environment paves the way for products that are truly unique, where design will be driven by the greatest of luxuries; creativity.


To further investigate Timepieces on Luxury Society, we invite your to explore the related materials as follows:

5 Minutes With … Jean-Claude Biver, Hublot
Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Leverages Film to Fight Counterfeiting
Spotlight: Pierre Dubois, CEO & Founder, Pierre DeRoche
Baselworld Mirrors Changing Landscape of Watches Sector


© Luxury Society, A Calm Confidence for Haute Horlogerie, 30 January 2012, by Sophie Duran.


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