LUXURY CONGLOMERATES LOOK TO HERITAGE REVIVAL

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Maison Moynat, founded in 1849, revived by LVMH in 2011

James Lawson, director of Ledbury Research, explains why well capitalised entrepreneurs are looking for opportunities with dormant prestige brands

The current economic slowdown, combined with densely crowded prestige markets, has led many entrepreneurs to consider reanimating an old brand rather than creating a new one. This entails acquiring the brand, either to restart its original activities or to use its reputation to start new production.

A brand is normally considered dormant – and, therefore, available for acquisition – if its trademarks have not been used for a number of consecutive years, usually three or five, depending on the country.

By reviving an old brand, entrepreneurs will benefit from its existing brand recognition and equity, usually defined as a combination of positive visual, verbal and emotional associations. That is to say, an historic brand intrinsically carries a sense of heritage, credibility and longevity.


“By reviving an old brand, entrepreneurs will benefit from its existing brand recognition and equity.”


Also, from a financial perspective, unlike the creation of a new brand, the reanimation of an historic brand would require a smaller initial investment to cover marketing costs.

However, reviving an old brand can also present a number of disadvantages. Beyond questioning why the brand died originally, the new products, for example, might not appeal to a younger generation or take into consideration the changes in consumers’ taste.

In addition, using an old brand to commercialise a new range of products could generate confusion in those customers who still associate it with the old products.


“Using an old brand to commercialise a new range of products could generate consumer confusion.”


Recently, the trend of re-launching historic brands has become particularly significant across the luxury industry, especially among major luxury groups that are looking for historic fashion houses with deep roots and a high level of authenticity.

A classic example is Faberge whose brand was long used for fragrances and cosmetics and only recently saw the original production of jewelled eggs restored. Similarly, LVMH acquired Moynat, a luxury leather luggage house that was founded 150 years ago but whose brand had been dormant for the past three decades.

Moreover, following its successful re-launch of the French shoemaker Roger Vivier a few years ago, this year Tod’s resuscitated Maison Schiapparelli, a fashion brand that had been dormant since 1954.


“Reviving historic brands requires a significant initial investment that only major luxury groups could likely contemplate.”


Undoubtedly, reviving historic brands requires a significant initial investment that only major luxury groups could likely contemplate, and in most cases, the name and the logo represent the only elements of continuity between the historic brand and its present incarnation.

Nevertheless, it appears to be a cost-efficient development strategy for companies looking to create an exclusive niche brand characterised by a strong sense of history and heritage.


To further investigate luxury brands on Luxury Society, we invite your to explore the related materials as follows:

2012’s Best Global Luxury Brands
What Makes for a Successful Luxury Re-Brand?
Has Luxury Brand Diversification Gone Too Far?


© Luxury Society, Luxury Conglomerates Look to Heritage Revival, 04 December 2012, by James Lawson.


Ledbury Research
is a research company specialising in the understanding and engaging of High Net Worth Individuals.

Bespoke consumer work spans all forms of quantitative and qualitative research, typically conducted on a multi-country basis, in wealth hubs around the world.

The analyst team delivers market information, trends and analysis through regular reports on the luxury and wealth markets.


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THE LATEST BOUTIQUES: HUBLOT, AUDI & CHANEL

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Dior Homme’s latest store in Miami

Burberry debuts retail as theatre in Chicago, Marni launches in three Chinese Mainland cities, as Hublot takes to the Philippines, United States, China & UAE.

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Audi, Ahmedabad, Dubai

Audi in partnership with Nixynova Motoren Pvt. Ltd have moved into a bigger showroom in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, which will now display entire range of Audi cars that is on offer in the country.

The luxury brand has also opened its largest dealership in Dubai with local dealer Al Nabooda Automobiles, which will be display up to 57 new vehicles over three levels. The Audi Terminal Dubai features floor-to-ceiling screens displaying the complete Audi model range including all equipment options, features and technical details on a 1:1 scale.

Source: Rush Lane, Motor Authority

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Boucheron, Hong Kong

Boucheron has debuted a new retail design concept in Hong Kong, a model that will be replicated across all the brand’s stores starting with an overhaul in Paris. The 80sqm space has been designed with luminosity in mind, harking back to the first atelier on Paris’ Place Vendome, where the workshop was flooded with light that highlighted the brilliance of the stones.

Source: FashionMag

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Breguet, Abu Dhabi

Breguet has unveiled its latest boutique in Abu Dhabi, located in the high standing commercial building “Etihad Towers”. The 32nd monobrand boutique worldwide showcases a mix of timepieces and gem-set Haute Joaillerie creations across 60sqm, in keeping with its global retail design concept launched in 2012.

Source: Breguet
Burberry, Chicago

Burberry has launched its second largest store in North America in Chicago, meshing digital, entertainment and fashion in one seamless experience across five-floors. The store houses the first beauty consultation counter in North America and will carry an exclusive, limited edition collection of outerwear and non-apparel for both men and women, created to celebrate Burberry in Chicago.

Source: Brand Channel

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Chanel Timepieces, Paris

Chanel has opened its first dedicated watch store in Europe on the first floor of Paris department store Galeries Lafayette, to house its Première and J12 lines in addition to the new Mademoiselle Privé collection. The 25sqm concession is decorated in the brand’s signature black, beige and gold.

Source: WWD

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Chopard, Abu Dhabi

Chopard has launched its latest boutique at Abu Dhabi’s Marina Mall, in partnership with Abu Dhabi distributor Al Manara International Jewellery. Created by architect Thierry Despont, the décor reflects that of a welcoming living room boasting fine woods for the floors and leather for the wall panels, store fixtures and furniture fronts and luscious velvet for curtains and upholstery.

Source: Luxos

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Christian Louboutin, London

Christian Louboutin has unveiled its first store dedicated to men in the United Kingdom, to carry a range of shoes, sneakers, bags and accessories. The 170sqm Dover Street flagship has been realised by New York architects 212box, the same architects responsible for Christian Louboutin stores worldwide.

Source: FashionMag

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Dior Homme, Miami

Dior Homme is the latest brand to launch in Miami’s new Design District, showcasing sleek architecture, minimalist decor, and luxe materials. To highlight the opening, Dior Homme collaborated with artist and photographer, Bruce Weber, to curate an exclusive film titled, “Can I Make the Music Fly,” that can be viewed here.

Source: The Fashionisto

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Elie Saab, Geneva

Elie Saab has opened a new 155sqm boutique overlooking Lake Leman in Geneva, Switzerland. Saab himself, in collaboration with architect Chakib Richani, has designed the dual-level space. The store will showcase the designer’s accessories and ready-to-wear items from both the autumn and winter 2012-2013 and pre-fall 2012 collections.

Source: VMSD

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Eterniti, London

London-based boutique luxury carmaker, Eterniti Motors, has officially launched its first showroom with a 930sqm facility in Park Royal, northwest London. Eterniti-owned showrooms will open in Asia in 2013, beginning with Hong Kong, which will serve as the company’s Asia-Pacific hub.

Source: Eterniti

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Georg Jensen, London

Danish luxury lifestyle brand Georg Jensen, has unveiled its newest concession in Selfridges, London, designed by British architects Mark Pinney Associates. The 20sqm space is housed within the store’s designer jewellery room, showcasing fine jewellery, luxury fashion jewellery as well as the heritage range and contemporary silver pieces.

Source: Retail Jeweller

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Gucci, Gurgaon

Gucci has opened its fifth and largest store in India at The Oberoi in Gurgaon, New Delhi, in keeping with the new design concept by Creative Director Frida Giannini. The near-400sqm space has been realised in ribbed glass, warm polished gold, smoked mirror and smoked bronze glass, recalling the elegance and richness of the Art Deco era.

Source: Daily Mail

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Hublot, Atlanta, Abu Dhabi, Dalian, Manila

Hublot has unveiled the first of five North American boutiques to open in the coming three years, with a 92sqm space in Atlanta, operated in partnership with Ares Distributors. The brand has also opened a second boutique in Abu Dhabi, and a second boutique in Dalian, in partnership with Jinhua Watch & Jewellery.

Finally, the very first Hublot boutique in the Philippines has debuted at the newly opened Bonifacio High Street Central mall, Manila. The boutique design concept creatively reflects Hublot’s DNA of luxury and innovative design, bringing to life its vision of fusion.

Source: Hublot

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Ittierre, Milan

Ittierre Group – producer of contemporary lines such as Pierre Balmain, C’N’C, Aquascutum, GF Ferré, Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld Paris – has debuted its first temporary department store in Milan. Housed over 1000sqm in Palazzo Gallarati Scotti, IT’S 30 MANZONI will offer principal collections of the group’s licensed brands.

Source: Vogue Italia

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IWC, Beijing, Miami, Sao Paulo

IWC has unveiled flagship boutiques in Beijing, Miami & Sao Paulo. The Beijing store features a 300sqm bi-level glass cube facade, a brainchild of in-house designers and architects. Each boutique is fitted out with sumptuous dark woods and exquisite materials, inviting customers to explore the six fascinating watch families along with boutique-exclusive editions.

Source: IWC

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Jaguar Land Rover, Beijing

Jaguar Land Rover has inaugurated its100th retail space in China, with the Beijing Changjiushida 4S Center in the heart of the city. The state-of-the-art repair centre and showroom, operated in partnership with the Changjiu Group, will have a workforce of around 110 people.

Source: Luxuo

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Jitrois, Beijing

In partnership with Keyijili Ltd, Jean-Claude Jitrois has opened a flagship store in Beijing, marking the brands first boutique in Asia. The 250sqm space has been designed by Christophe Pillet, the architect responsible for all of the brands stores, in a luxury shopping centre in the Chaoyang district of the Chinese capital.

Source: FashionMag

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Marni, Nanjing, Shanghai, Shenyang

Marni has unveiled three Chinese flagship boutiques, in Shanghai’s REEL shopping centre, Nanjing’s Deji Plaza and a store in Shenyang, brining its presence to nine locations in the country. Marni creative director Consuelo Castiglioni worked closely with architecture firm Sybarite, the creators of the brand’s Beijing store, to create the spaces.

Source: Luxuo

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Montblanc, Abu Dhabi

Montblanc has opened its latest boutique in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, offering the exclusive Bespoke Nib Service, which is currently available in just four Montblanc boutiques worldwide. The store will house luxury watches, jewellery and leather goods, as well as writing instruments and its customisation service. Curacao boutique pictured

Source: Luxos

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Pucci, New York City

Pucci creative director Peter Dundas has unveiled the world’s largest Pucci store in New York, designed in collaboration with French architect Joseph Dirand, modelled after the Palazzo Pucci in Florence. The 250sqm store will form the design basis for future retail locations and feature the entire collection of Pucci ready-to-wear and accessories.

Source: Bloginity

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TAG Heuer, Geneva

TAG Heuer has opened its first boutique in Geneva, with a 100sqm space located on Rue Robert-Céard. The store will house the brand’s Lifestyle collection of accessories, as well as a range of sunglasses and luxury communication devices, Meridiist, Link and Racer, specially conceived by TAG Heuer.

Source: FHH

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Vacheron Constantin, Lucerne

Vacheron Constantin has chosen Lucerne, in German-speaking Switzerland, for its latest boutique at 10 Kapellplatz. This warm and intimate setting is designed to offer a full immersion into the world of a company combining tradition with dynamic creativity.

Source: FHH

For more in the series of The Latest Boutiques, please see our most recent editions as follows:

The Latest Boutiques: Chloé, Brioni & Shang Xia
The Latest Boutiques: Berluti, Dior & Saint Laurent Paris
The Latest Boutiques: Hublot, Breguet & Assouline


© Luxury Society, The Latest Boutiques: Hublot, Audi & Chanel, 10 December 2012, by Sophie Doran.


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THE LATESTS BOUTIQUES: SOTHEBY’S, SHANGHAI TANG & SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

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IWC’s first U.S. flagship on Madison Avenue, New York City

The Latest openings from Armani Casa, Vacheron Constantin, Roger Vivier, IWC and Jimmy Choo, in Miami, Beijing, Costa Mesta, Milan, New York & Hong Kong

Cautious whispers of a slowdown in China have rippled through the luxury industry, despite the stellar performance of luxury goods in 2012. Ledbury Research recently confirmed the increasingly wary attitudes of luxury brand CEO’s, and pointed out that while sales have increased, in many cases market share has declined.

CLSA Asia-Pacific Markets explicitly disagrees, saying Chinese consumers will continue to purchase watches, handbags, jewellery and expensive clothes. “Wealthy individuals won’t slow down their spending,” remarked CLSA analyst Aaron Fischer to the Wall Street Journal. Barring a terrorist attack, pandemic or corruption crackdown, China will continue to lead the boom in luxury goods for years to come, according to the firm’s research.

And if brick-and-mortar store openings are anything to go buy, the luxury industry still believes in the promise of China. Vacheron Constantin this month opened its third boutique in Beijing alone, as Michael Kors launched in the city’s Shin Kong Place shopping mall and Roberto Cavalli in the Peninsula Hotel. Zegna moved into tier-2 city Shenyang, as Lancel launched a new concept store in Shanghai.

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Armani Casa, Miami

Armani Casa has moved into Miami’s new design district, with a 340sqm space at 10 NE 39th Street. It is the first Armani Casa store in Miami and the third in the United States. The store will house a range of furniture decor, tableware, decorative accessories, fabrics, ornaments, lighting and bathroom and kitchen products, as well as offering the brands “made to measure” interior design service.

Website: armanicasa.com
Source: WWD

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Dior Homme, New York

Dior Homme has launched a pop-up space in New York’s SoHo, whilst its 57th Street undergoes renovation. The Greene Street location features ready-to-wear, footwear, eyewear, leather goods, watches, jewellery and fragrance. Creative Director Kris Van Assche has selected a piece by Robert Montgomery to display in the boutique.

Website: dior.com/homme
Source: Fashion Windows

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Jimmy Choo, Hong Kong

Jimmy Choo has unveiled its first dual gender store, after expanding and renovating its boutique in Hong Kong’s Elements mall. The storefront features side-by-side entrances for women and men’s, each with its own dedicated shopping environment. The reimagined store is the first retail opening managed wholly by Jimmy Choo Hong Kong Limited, the venture created following the acquisition of the shareholding from joint venture partner Bluebell.

Website: jimmychoo.com
Source: Choo Connection

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IWC, New York

IWC Schaffhausen has opened its first US flagship in New York City at 535 Madison Avenue. The NYC store is the first of its kind, presenting the company’s watch families – Aquatimer, Pilot’s Watches, Portofino, Ingenieur, Da Vinci, and Portuguese – in themed settings that reflect their individual character.

Website & Source: iwc.com

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Lancel, Shanghai

Lancel has launched a concept store in Shanghai, designed by Christopher Pillot, who dressed the Champs-Elysees maison. The boutique features a handcrafted Murano glass chandelier and stained-glass panels, hand-painted by French artist Caroline Pregermain. Elsewhere oak flooring, brushed metals, LED lighting and vegetal furniture leathers house the brand’s accessories.

Website: lancel.com
Source: Luxury Insider

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Lamborghini, Moscow

Lamborghini has contracted with the Burevestnik Group, a luxury automobile and yacht retailer located in Moscow, to become Lamborghini’s first official dealership. A temporary sales operation has been launched in the Crocus City Mall whilst the group finalises construction of a Moscow showroom. The completed dealership will house sales, service and accessory sales for the complete Lamborghini product line-up. (Newport Beach dealership pictured)

Website: lamborghini.com
Source: Motor Authority

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Max Mara, Bucharest

Max Mara has launched a flagship store in Bucharest, which houses the Max Mara line alongside SportMax. The brand formerly operated a small store on Calea Victoriei in partnership with Alsa Group, but this new launch makes its presence in Romania one of its largest in Eastern Europe. (Paris boutique pictured)

Website: maxmara.com
Source: CPP Luxury

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Michael Kors, Beijing

Michael Kors has opened his first store in Beijing and its largest in China, located in the Shin Kong Place shopping mall. The 225sqm store retails accessories and ready-to-wear from both the main and diffusion lines and features a large format video screen showing the designer’s runway shows.

Website: michaelkors.com
Source: WWD

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Odin, New York

Niche perfume brand Odin New York has opened its first pop-up shop in collaboration with Snarkitecture. The pop up shop will remain open for six weeks, and will include all six of Odin’s unisex and home fragrances. The aim of the boutique is to showcase the product design by inverting the darkness of the packaging resulting in a bright, clean space.

Website: odinedt.com
Source: Bois de Jasmine

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Prada, Porto Cervo

Opening its second store in the Italian holiday destination of Porto Cervo, Prada has inaugurated a 95sqm space dedicated to menswear and accessories on La Passeggiata, the town’s luxury shopping street.

Website: prada.com
Source: CPP Luxury

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Roberto Cavalli, Beijing

Italian fashion designer Roberto Cavalli has opened the first phase of his debut store in China, within the arcade of the Peninsula Hotel, Beijing. The 300sqm space houses women and men’s ready-to-wear, as well as accessories, eyewear, perfumes, timewear and kidswear collections.

Website: robertocavalli.com
Source: Fashion United

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Roger Vivier, Costa Mesa

Roger Vivier has opened its third U.S. boutique, and its first in California, within the South Coast Plaza luxury mall in Costa Mesa. The 92sqm space features the brand’s seasonal footwear and accessories collections, as well as the limited-edition Rendez-Vous line for traveling.

Website: rogervivier.com
Source: WWD

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Salvatore Ferragamo, New York City

Salvatore Ferragamo’s largest boutique – its Fifth Avenue flagship – has reopened following 13th weeks of renovation. The 1,900sqm space features womenswear, menswear, accessories, shoes, and also the recently launched fine jewellery collection. The brand also used the occasion to debut the Travel Luggage Collection, set to launch this summer.

Website: ferragamo.com
Source: Style Rumor

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Shanghai Tang, Hong Kong

Shanghai Tang has launched a three-storey Mansion in Hong Kong, celebrating modern elegance and fashion through colours, exquisite fabrics, unique designs and prints. Womenswear occupies space on the ground and first floors, featuring a curved ceiling, a peony brass-inlay on the wooden flooring, fan-patterned screens and semi-circular seating.

Evoking a discreet gentleman’s club in warm hues, the calm, masculine Men’s wear floor offers ample leather seating, as well as an embossed dragon, a Chinese symbol of power.

Website & Source: shanghaitang.com

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Sotheby’s, Hong Kong

Sotheby’s is soon to open a 1,400sqm permanent exhibition space in Hong Kong, and will celebrate with a string of exhibitions running through the end of May. The gallery will occupy the entire fifth floor of One Pacific Place, the massive space will become a sort of HQ for the global auction house to expand its presence in Asia beyond its current biannual auction series in April and October.

Website: sothebys.com
Source: Jing Daily

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Vacheron Constantin, Beijing

Vacheron Constatin has unveiled its third flagship Beijing, on the ground floor of Beijing Macau Center, bringing the total number of stores worldwide to 30. The opening also coincided with the arrival of three special edition watches in Beijing and at the store, including the newly launched Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon, Métiers d’Art Kalla Haute Couture à Pampilles and the Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2253.

Website: vacheron-constantin.com
Source: Luxury Insider

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Zegna, Shenyang

Ermenegildo Zegna recently celebrated the opening of its fourth China flagship, in the north-eastern luxury hotspot Shenyang. The 505sqm space within Shenyang’s MixC mall has been designed by architect Peter Marino, divided into three sections for each of Zegna’s brands: Ermenegildo Zegna suits and accessories, Z Zegna, and Z Sport.

Website: zegna.com
Source: Jing Daily

For more in the series of The Latest Boutiques, please see our most recent editions as follows:

The Latest Boutiques: Chanel, Tom Ford & Valentino
The Latest Boutiques: Céline, Chaumet & Elie Saab
The Latest Boutiques, Burberry, Bally & Boucheron


© Luxury Society, The Latest Boutiques: Sotheby’s, Shanghai Tang & Salvatore Ferragamo, 09 May 2012, by Sophie Doran.


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